72 Hours in Saint-Germain
Next time you book a train to Paris, do yourself a favor and stay on the Left Bank in Saint-Germain. This past weekend I journeyed across the English Channel to the City of Lights and following the advice of a dear friend, booked a room at the delightful Hotel Fleurie right off Boulevard Saint-Germain. Although the room was slightly outdated, it successfully checked all of the must-haves on my travel accommodation list - spotless, affordable, and centrally located. If you ever have 72 hours to roam the quaint alleyways and streets of Saint-Germain (with a handful of other Parisian neighborhoods sprinkled into your itinerary), here is how I would suggest spending your time.
Saturday
Plan to arrive on Saturday morning via the Eurostar. Take an Uber straight from Gare du Nord to the hotel, check-in at the front desk, quickly freshen-up and head out for a full-day of exploring! First up: spot the iconic green awning at Les Deux Margot and do your best to snag an outdoor seat. Order yourself an outrageously overpriced cappuccino and watch as the city and all of its beautiful inhabitants pass you by.
Once you’ve re-energized with a hit of caffeine, it’s time to stretch those legs of yours. Head towards the Seine and cross-over the nearest bridge, at which point you’ll have reached the magnificent Louvre. Take a stroll through the Tuileries and pop into the Musée de l’Orangerie to catch a glimpse of Monet’s masterpieces. After losing yourself in the beauty of his Water Lillies, make your way to Les Juveniles for the most delicious lunch deal in town (16 euros for the entrée of the day, a glass of house wine, and a coffee to polish off the meal). Make sure you leave room for dessert - the chef makes the BEST rice pudding I’ve ever eaten!
As you may already know, most shops in Paris are closed Sunday through Monday, which means Saturday afternoon is prime-time for a shopping extravaganza. Post lunch, head back across the Seine and spend a few hours weaving in-and-out of the cobblestone streets. You’ll find everything from high-end luxury designer boutiques to second-hand vintage shops. Hartford (for casual clothing), Cire Trudon (for candles), Avril Gau (for handbags/shows), and Astier de Villatte (for treasured ceramics) are a few of my favorites.
You’ll have an endless list of options come dinner time, but I’d recommend jumping in cab and heading over to Clamato in hopes of securing a seat at the bar. Known for it’s fresh seafood sharing plates and diverse selection of natural wines, I have no doubt your body will thank you for ending a long and action-packed day on a fairly light note.
Sunday
Rise, shine and head straight to the Saint-Germain branch of Claus for a scrumptious and filling brunch to power you through the rest of the day! Be prepared to indulge in pastries, fresh bread, muesli, and silky eggs cooked to your liking. After you’ve woken from your food-induced coma, grab a coffee to-go (very anti-Parisian, I know) and head out for a long walk along the Seine towards Le Marais (you’ll pass Notre Dame on your way so be sure to stop for a few photos).
Le Marais is home to a large Jewish community in Paris and is therefore the perfect neighborhood to visit on Sunday, when the vast majority of other areas are closed for business. I’d suggest heading straight to the Musée Picasso to check out the latest exhibit, followed by lunch at the infamous L’As du Fallafel. Here’s an insider tip I picked up during my recent trip to Paris: Rather than waiting in the back of the inevitable line that forms outside the entrance of the restaurant, head straight to the front and introduce yourself to one of the employees on guard. If you plan to dine in, the guard will assign you a ticket and tell you to come back within 30 minutes. After taking a peaceful lap around Place des Vosges, you’ll be back at the restaurant eating a giant pita filled to the brim with falafel and hummus in practically no time!
En route back to the hotel, be sure to swing by Pelaton for an afternoon espresso and Mélodies Graphiques for new stationary and a beautiful set of handmade cards.
When it comes time for dinner, I’d suggest staying local and hopping from one wine bar to the next. Start the evening at Ambassade de Bourgogne with a flight of white wine and an assortment of French cheese, followed by a stop at Au Sauvignon for a glass of Burgundy and a serving of fois gras. Next, depending on your appetite, you could end the night with a short stroll to L’Avant Comptoir for a few small bites and a San Sebastian pintxos bar vibe, or venture around the corner to Le Relais de Venise for a reliably delicious serving of steak & fries.
Monday
Of all the trips I’ve made to Paris since moving abroad 6 years ago, I must say, this last trip may have been my favorite. After all, what could be better than waking up on a Monday morning to sunny skies and the realization that instead of going to work, you have an entire day ahead of you filled with little more than walking, eating & relaxing in one of the most beautiful cities in the world? After dressing for the day and checking out of the hotel (they’re more than happy to watch over your bags until you’re ready to depart), pick up a coffee at Claus, a fresh pain au chocolat at Josephine, and head on over to Jardin du Luxembourg for a morning picnic in the park.
Indulge yourself one last time with lunch at Le Comptoir du Relais. If you luck out with the weather, head there early to ensure you get an outdoor seat. Post-lunch, circle back through the park and treat yourself to a truly world-class hot chocolate at Angelina before grabbing your bags at the hotel and catching the train.
Au revoir, Paris! Until we meet again.